During Shanghai Fashion Week, Louis Shengtao Chen, the eponymous brand, presented its Spring/Summer 2024 collection, “Orgasmic.” Designer, Louis plays with the intricate inner feelings of shame, the shame of expressing, yet wanting to express. All taking place in a momentary of fragility, of lust, and a yearning for the unknown.
In his journey of evolution, Louis Shengtao Chen has always dived himself into a black hole of romance. Louis Shengtao Chen follows the main thread of the collection and cuts away the complexity in his first attempt. He turns cloth into layers of skin, peeling, peeling, until all the raw form and edges are shown in bare skin.
The show’s models adorned red sequin and lace-covered eyes with oversized peacoats tightly hovering over pearl embroidered mesh dresses. Exaggerated fabric-trimmed headscarves disguising the wearer’s identity in a form of snake; it’s glamour in anonymity, a hide-and-seek of desire, a peekaboo of insecurity.
Spikes and cone-shaped 3D shoulders protect the torn-up floral cut-out evening dress, as if no one can, or should, get anywhere nearer. An AI created doll face printed on a puffed skirt, weaving alongside lines of sophistication, in a joking manner that mocks its own presence.
Models walked down the runway with head crowned, floral pinned, colors bright and shining, yet arms crossed to blatantly cover their inner unsettling emotions. Blood velvety red linings underneath a traditional English checkered overcoat over burgundy stockings.
ABOUT LOUIS SHENGTAO CHEN
Louis (Shengtao Chen) graduated from Central Saint Martins. From the age of 16 to the present, his 8 years of fashion background and experience as a fashion model have given him a unique insight into fashion. In the world of Louis, luxury is not just about expensive fabrics and exquisite French embroidery. Aimed at challenging the traditional notion of glamour, Louis established eponymous brand Louis Shengtao Chen attempts to construct a boundary-breaking yet accessible cloth philosophy. Louis was awarded Ports 1961 full scholarship, LVMH Grand PrixScholarship (2020) and British Fashion Council BAScholarship (2019) during academy year and once worked for the brands KIKO KOSTADINOV and LOEWE.
Source: Louis Shengtao Chen/ Runway Photos: Edison,Allen,David lee